Sunday 31 July 2011 – Castlebay

Wind and light rain in the night and all morning.  Late breakfast. Read and knitted.

Maybe tomorrow we might go to Eriskay.

Saturday 30 July 2011 – Castlebay

Weather forecast not too good for tomorrow but we decided we would be OK in Castlebay and so we would explore today.  After shopping it was lunchtime.  Afterwards we climbed the 2 hills behind the harbour, which was hard work in the heat and out of the wind.  Great views both N and S over the islands, but limited by haze.  We then found the Chambered Cairn which was mentioned in the Islands book (using its map ref and GPS).  A bit disappointing that it was collapsed so not possible to enter.  Then a trek back over the side of the hills to the harbour.

Follow the track to the cairn and back to the boat on Google Maps.

In the bay at Castlebay (+ campers for music festival)

View S over other islands from top of hill

Kisimul castle. That’s why it’s Castlebay

Friday 29 July 2011 – Canna to Castlebay

A definite change in sailing conditions today.  A close fetch in a light N wind which makes a welcome change from beating. Conditions were perfect for watching for dolphins etc with calm sea and bright but overcast sky.

We got lucky with the watching.  The result was:

• 3 separate sightings each of a single Basking Shark. Not close enough to see the creature itself, just a single fin going slowly along the surface. The tip was quite rounded and the leading edge was less steep than the back edge. No sign of the tail fin which we might expect to see.
• 3 separate small groups of Dolphins.  Probably bottle-nosed dolphins, but not near enough to see properly
• Some seals
• Minke Whale.  This was at some distance and was only on the surface for a short time.  By the time it was my turn with the binoculars it had gone.

However we were less lucky with Castlebay.  After picking up the last mooring (as there did not seem to be lots of room to anchor) it seemed a bit noisy.  It appears there is a music festival on.  In addition to listening to the music the festival-goers get drunk and run round shouting.

Follow the track on Google Maps

Guillemots and Hyskeir island

Approaching Barra

Thursday 28 July 2011 – Arisaig to Canna

Overnight rain – have not had rain for ages.  Left Arisaig 1/2 hour before low water, which still allows enough water at the shallow part of the channel as it’s not long after neaps.  The trip to Canna should be easy enough - we just have to go round Eigg and Rum and we will nearly be there.  The wind was for much of the time against us, which is something we are used to, but this time there were awkward short waves from different directions which made us uncomfortable and slowed the boat. 

The coast of Rum is not a good place to park

On the NW coast of Rum we saw a fishing boat washed up on the rocks.  I guess that happens quite easily if the prop is fouled or the engine packs up.  I presume it had been there for a while as we had not heard of any emergency.

By the time we arrived it was too late to visit the Post Office and buy special Canna stamps.  Canna seems like a nice place, agricultural and tidy, and seems to have been better looked after in the past than some of the other islands. We took a brief walk past the farm and over the bridge to Sanday, the island which forms the other side of the harbour.  Also visited the Celtic cross, which is 1300 years old and a bit broken.

Hopefully tomorrow we can go to Castlebay on Barra.

Follow the track on Google Maps

Approaching Canna harbour

In Canna Harbour

Wednesday 27 July 2011 – Arisaig

Today we were going to go to Canna.  However there was no wind, warm sunshine and the local Highland Games were to start at 12:00. So we arranged to stay another night and also booked to leave the boat here when we go back home for a while in August.

We had a rather hot walk along the road to the games.  “Only 2 miles” we were told, by someone who always goes that way by car.  It seemed longer to me.

The highlight of the games was the final of the “throwing 56lb weight over the bar” where a new local record was set on the final throw.  Next year they will have to lengthen the posts as the bar was right at the top.

The other memorable feature was the Strawberry van, where we each got a plate containing scone, buried under a load of cream with a helping of strawberries and a bit of chocolate sauce.

Ready to throw the hammer

Sword Dance

Tossing the caber

Highland games video clips:

 

Tossing the caber

 

Throwing the weight - near miss

 

Throwing the weight - new record

Tuesday 26 July 2011 – Rum to Arisaig

Headed over to Arisaig to wash clothes and fill with water, using the cruising chute on the way there for the first time for ages as we were at last on a reach.

Arisaig Marine recommended a refrigeration engineer, who is based miles away.  By the time I contacted him he had just finished a job at Mallaig, nearby, and had returned home. Better luck next time.

By evening most things were washed and we had stocked up as best we could from the Spar shop – the only problem being we cannot carry as much perishables as usual as the fridge is not working.

Follow the track on Google Maps

The moorings at Arisaig. Eigg in distance.

The mountains of rum from the moorings

Monday 25 July 2011 - Rum

A bit of a rest day after yesterday’s exertions.  A trip ashore in time for a cup of tea and cake and then collected some bread from the little shop. We peeped in through the windows of Kinloch Castle, finding the interiors looked rather sad with fabrics showing damage from the sunshine.  I presume that Scottish Natural Heritage can afford to keep the roof repaired but not conserve all the furniture etc.

The wind is now lighter and we are the only boat on the far (upwind) side of the loch, with 7 boats on the side near the jetty.

Tomorrow we hope to go to Arisaig to do a bit of washing, shopping etc.

Kinloch Castle. Front lawn needs mowing

Sunday 24 July 2011 - Rum

This morning we discovered the fridge was not working. No, I have not overloaded it with beer and wine. However I would like to get it fixed as it really helps us to keep some fresh food.

Somewhere on the ridge

Anyway it was a fine sunny day and good forecast – so was the ideal day to walk along the main ridge of Rum, sometimes called the Rum Cuillin, though it’s a lot smaller than the Cuillins on Skye.  We picked up a leaflet including map from the information centre and headed up the track beside Kinloch castle.

We had an excellent ridge walk and scramble along mountains which are steep and impressive, but it was slow going with not much by way of paths.  Some of the names are of Norse origin and sound as if they come from Lord of the Rings: Hallival, Askival, Trollaval (which we skipped), Ainshval, Sgurr nan Gillean and then down to the valley at Dibidil, from where we walked back along the coast, stopping for a bathe to cool down and clean up at a stream with a deep pool in a cleft in the rocks.  Rum is a complete contrast from Muck. It’s all big, mountainous and wild with as yet no sign of agriculture.

It was a long and tiring day, as expected, but one might visit the island many times without having such a good opportunity to traverse the ridge.  Follow the track of our walk on Google Maps

On top of Askival

On the ridge. Green grass indicates Shearwater burrow

s

The ridge

Loch Scresort. Cuillins on Skye behind

Saturday 23 July 2011 – Muck to Rum

Another fine day, with the N wind continuing.  We are getting a bit sloppy about going with the tide as the distances are small and it’s neaps.  So we went ashore for a bit more exploration of the island.

Anchorage at Port Mor, Muck with Eigg in background

The engine started OK and we left Muck with no trouble.  However after stopping the engine it would not start again for a few minutes – it seems best not to ignore such a fault, so I phoned Arisaig Marine and found that they have an engineer who could look at it next week.  Loch Scresort, our destination on Rum, is big with easy entrance so we can enter and anchor under sail if there is any problem with the engine.

It was a beat all the way there, as has become the custom, with the wind N4 then N5, going East round the island if Eigg.  On arrival I took a careful look at the engine handbook and found that there is a fuse in the starter circuit, in an almost unreachable position, which has to be the main suspect.  After removing the air cleaner I could just reach the fuse holder, took out the fuse and tested it. After a bit of fiddling the end fell off the fuse, so I think that was the fault.  The fuse-holder contained a spare fuse, so now I hope all is well, but I might re-wire a little with a fuse in a sensible place – it would be very difficult to change the fuse with the boat under way.

No time to explore Rum today – tomorrow we hope to walk the main ridge.


Follow the track on Google Maps

Approaching Loch Scresort, Rum

Eigg. Its impressive ridge is called The Sgurr

Friday 22 July 2011 – Coll to Muck

Muck with mountains of Rum behind

As expected the wind is from NE or N, so it will be a beat.  However it’s a sunny day with a cool wind of about F3-4 – what more could we want. Soon after leaving Coll we started to get good views of the Small Isles, that’s Rum, Eigg, Much and Canna and also many of the mountains on the mainland.  Rounding Ardnamurchan was a little of an anti-climax as the point is fairly low and the sea was calm in spite of the impression given by the pilot book.  This is the most westerly point of the UK mainland.  We have also rounded the most easterly point, Ness Point, near Lowestoft, on this trip.

On arrival we had a problem with the engine. After stopping the engine the oil pressure warning light and beeper did not come on as usual. I then found that the engine would not start.  Had a cup of tea, checked it all out and then it seemed OK – maybe it depends on the temperature of the engine.

Approaching anchorage at Port Mor, Muck

Exploring the island we heard corncrakes again and also saw 2 of them when moving through the grass to take photos.  The farming here seems much more active than on Coll, with a number of hay fields and loads of wrapped round bales of hay and silage.

Pam bought a Pollock and a live crab from the fisherman who also farms part of the island.  So she bought some eggs too.  Bought veg from the shop which has taken self service to a new level.  As well as choosing / weighing the goods you pay for it as well.  They have some craft stuff, in particular small rugs / hangings which have pictures crafted into them.

Crab – about to be cooked

Still cannot upload the blog – we have GSM signal from Orange but no 3G from 3.  Tomorrow we need to do a little more exploring on the island and then maybe go to Rum.  One day soon we need to get some water and wash some clothes.

Follow the track on Google Maps

Muck – farmland + views over Rum, Cuillins of Skye, part of Eigg

Port Mor, Muck. Distant mountains are on Rum

Muck. Main road and harbour

Thursday 21 July 2011 – Coll

The anchorage in Loch Eatharna

It’s a good idea to get a bit of exercise on a cruise, rather than just sit about on the boat all day, so we decided to hire bikes and cycle round the island.  The Post Office hired us one bike for £10 and another for nothing as it was so clapped out.  We set off equipped with sandwiches, drink, map (sort of) etc.  However after a few yards a pedal fell off the “good” bike and we took it back.  They did not seem to have spares and no part from their stock of dead bikes fitted, so we got our money back and set off on foot instead.

Only problem was that we did the same route that was planned for the bikes.  Some bits were quite interesting, such as stopping to buy veg and cake at a house and having our sandwiches.  Many bits were long and boring.  Although it was fine and sunny the wind was a bit cold for swimming, and it was also low tide.  Found Grass of Parnassus (it’s a flower), heard 1 corncrake (the other 119 kept quiet), visited the top of Ben Hogh, fortunately only 104m, with its strange boulder balanced on 3 stones.

Loch Breachacha – a quiet beach complete with cows and sheep

After 22+ km on the road we were given a lift the last short distance by an elderly couple.  He is a lay preacher who is one of several who takes turns to run the church, which cannot afford a full-time minister. The little cafe has sensible opening hours (unlike nearly all seaside tea shops which close at 4:30) so we could have tea and scones on our return.  This improved my mood somewhat.  Buying Camping Gaz at the hotel completed my recovery as the price was £20.75 (compared with £23 at the last place which was not even on an island).

Strange boulder near the top of Ben Hogh

We still have a reasonable forecast, so hope to head for Muck tomorrow.  This will of course be another beat as the wind remains from the N.

Follow the track of our walk on Google Maps.

Wednesday 20 July 2011 – Sound of Ulva to Coll

A much better-looking day, with a reasonable forecast (N4-5), so we headed to Coll.  A beat as expected.

Anchored inshore of all the other anchored boats, but could have gone even further as it’s a gently-shelving sandy bottom for a change.  Bought food including a loaf of bread from the cafe/delicatessen.  This came straight from his wife’s breadmaker, so I guess they won’t be having bread at supper time.

They say it’s possible to get a mobile phone signal near the ro-ro pier, so maybe I will try that this evening.   Wind is currently N5 through the anchorage – hope it drops a bit before bed-time.  Later the wind dropped – I think it’s a sea breeze - and we went ashore and made some phone calls.  Disappointed to find there were no text messages or missed calls – I don’t think anyone has noticed we have been out of touch for about a week.

Follow the track on Google Maps

Leaving Sound of Ulva

Approaching the anchorage in Loch Eatharna

The anchorage with us in pole position

Tuesday 19 July 2011 – Sound of Ulva

Livingstone’s Cave (including archaeologist’s shed)

The night had started quietly but we were woken by stronger wind and so lost some sleep on anchor watch.  I went back to bed for some of the morning.  After lunch we took a look ashore and found it was a very pleasant island, with quite a variety of terrain including woodland which contained proper big trees, rather than bent coastal shrubs.

We found Livingstone’s Croft and also Livingstone’s cave.  David Livingstone’s Grandfather and father built the croft whilst living in the cave.  Nobody is living there at the moment, but archaeologists have been busy there but do not seem to have finished the job.

We also found a good example of columnar basalt (as on the Giant’s Causeway).  Unfortunately we did not have time to walk as far as Cragaig Bay – it would have been interesting to check out the anchorage.  There’s a proper tea shop here – however it closes at 5pm so we did not get any tea or scones.

Maybe tomorrow we might go to Coll. Forecast is OK at N-NW 4-5, which means another beat of course.

Information centre – furnished and staffed in the traditional way

Basalt Columns (+ small giant)

Monday 18 July 2011 – Bunessan to Sound of Ulva

Ardmeanach Peninsula with waterfalls

After another windy night, spent watching the anchor, the wind dropped and the sun came out, neither of which were suggested by the forecast which remains pretty poor. The barometer has gone up a tiny bit to 990.  The Ardmeanach peninsula looks even more impressive with several waterfall streams running down it.  Unfortunately its heavy cap of cloud prevents me taking a decent picture.

It would be nice to move on but we have to be a bit sensible as we do not wish to be out in the same wind as last night.  We decided to visit Cragaig Bay on Ulva as it is said to be sheltered and is South-facing. On the way we had more good views of the Ardmeanach peninsula, The cloud had lifted and the waterfalls were starting to lose their power.

Ardmeanach Peninsula with cloud

It was a beat over there, of course, but this gave the option of a run back if we did not like the look of the place.  Approaching Cragaig Bay, we thought we could see the way in, but the wind increased, coming out of the bay.  Looking in we could not see the sort of sheltered water one hopes to find in an anchorage – it all seemed thoroughly disturbed by the wind, which appeared to be coming over the island, down the hill and through the anchorage.  It did not seem sensible to investigate further in strong wind. Panic – where now?  After a quick look at the pilot books we headed for the Sound of Ulva.  I had previously dismissed this as a bad place to go - if you wish to pass through the sound you follow instructions like “keep a sharp look out for rocks in the narrow passage”.

Follow the track on Google Maps

Sound of Ulva – view S when at anchor

However there is an anchorage at the S end which is easy to reach.  Once there we found it a very quiet spot, with no road noise or anything. Also no GSM access, but I am getting used to that. Maybe we will go ashore in the morning – can’t be bothered just now.

Sunday 17 July 2011 – Bunessan

Woke in the night to quite a lot of wind and some rain, so started an anchor watch.  We seemed to stay put as this spot is quite protected from swell and waves.  However we we continually veer from side to side which is wearing and I wonder if it may unsettle the anchor.

 

Forecast was for NW 5-7 all today and tomorrow and that seems to be what’s happening. What a pain! The wind was quite often F6 overnight and has generally been less in the day.  Sometimes it seems to stop, but the wind meter still shows 17 knots or so!  The barometer went down to 986 and by late evening had risen to only 989 as there is a big low over us and everyone else.

 

We put Pam’s old diving weights on as an anchor “angel” or “chum”.  This seemed to help the angle of the rope but is not heavy enough. Spent a lot of time reading and knitting. Checked engine oil and tightened the generator belt.  Ran the engine for a while to do some battery charging as the solar panel is doing nothing with this heavy cloud.

 

No photos today.

Saturday 16 July 2011 – Bunessan

Wet overnight and early in the morning. Forecast very gloomy as there is a big low over us.  Our neighbours soon left. Went ashore for more shopping etc.  After lunch we took a walk over the hill to the S coast of Mull – in warm sunshine in spite of the forecast.  Found mobile phone signal about 1.5 miles away – only problem was that Richard was attending a wedding with his phone switched off, so could not do much anyway.  We even had a swim – first of the season. Rather cold.  Follow the track of the walk on Google Maps.

The impressive Ardmeanach peninsula

In the evening the forecast continued poor so not sure if we will go anywhere tomorrow.  As the wind had gone round to NW our anchorage became a little uncomfortable, with the prospect of getting much worse overnight, so we moved to the other arm of the Loch (the SW corner) which appears to be more sheltered at present.

mini-tornado forming under the cloud

Beach on S of Ross of Mull

Don’t mess with me!

Ardmeanach Peninsula with evening cloud

Friday 15 July 2011 – Gometra to Bunessan

Left Gometra at the usual leisurely hour, and sailed South – beating of course.  Passed Staffa and took yet more photos and eventually reached Loch na Lathaig, which is on the N coast of the Southern arm of Mull, called the Ross of Mull. The head of the loch is said to be sheltered, so we anchored near the fish pier at Bunessan. 

Got wet in the rain doing our shopping and searching for mobile phone signal.  Met botanist and her helpers.  She was nearing the end of cataloguing the flora of Mull, having worked on it for 15 years.  Returned to the boat, read books and knitted during heavy rain.

3 more boats arrived.

Leaving Arcasaid Mor, Gometra

Anchored of Bunessan

 Look at today's track on Google Maps.

Thursday 14 July 2011 – Lunga to Gometra (North Harbour)

Some of the peace had gone well before it was time to get up.  A light wind (about F3) caused enough swell to make me get up a couple of times and check that we were still in the same place.  We left after our normal lazy breakfast, finding this was easier when the tide was not full (and we had found the leading mark on the shore yesterday).

Dutchman’s Cap

We sailed past the island called Dutchman’s Cap (because of its strange shape) and then past Staffa, with a brief diversion to take photos of the tall ship Europa, which looked very fine with all sails set.  I think she must be a participant in the Tall Ships Race, which left the Clyde on 12 July.  If so she is not trying to be competitive, just doing a bit of sightseeing on the way.  We had earlier seen another smaller ship in the distance which looked like the Excelsior from Lowestoft.  It would be nice to visit Fingal’s cave on Staffa, but I am not happy with the anchoring place, however good the weather.

Europa, dawdling on the Tall Ships Race

We anchored in Gometra’s North Harbour (called Arcaseid Mor like many other natural harbours) just before the rain started. As this is supposed to be a popular spot I was surprised to see no other boats were present. Later took a walk along the rough track which serves as the only road across the island, eventually reaching the bridge to Ulva. The bridge is only wide enough for a quad bike so we think that most things come and go by water.

Later 4 more boats joined us, so it is popular as the book says.  Not sure where to go tomorrow – the weather is deteriorating a bit and we have at last got the forecast from the coastguard.

Follow the track on Google Maps

Fingal’s Cave, Staffa

Acarseid Mor or North Harbour, Gometra

Ulva on Left, Gometra on Right and the old causeway