Wednesday 29 June 2011 – Shuna Sound to Lismore (Port Ramsey)

Pontoon and moorings at Linnhe Marine

A thoroughly lazy day (at last).  After a late breakfast and lunch we went ashore via the long pontoon for a late shower.  The facilities are basic but work – you just have to make sure nobody is filling a boat tank before starting the shower.  The moorings here are all very substantial as the bay is open to the NE.  They each have a 2 ton block, heavy riser chain, thinner riser chain, then rope. The idea is to make sure that the boat is not snagging against a heavy riser chain. The yard is called Linnhe Marine and had been recommended to us. They in turn recommended Creran Marine, in Loch Creran, as a possibility for winter storage.

We left via the buoyed S channel and some wind appeared, so we took a sail across Loch Linnhe, or maybe it’s Lynne of Morvern at this point and then headed for the anchorage at Port Ramsey at the NW corner of Lismore. Seems a nice quiet island.  We took a quick look ashore and will explore properly tomorrow.

Miles done etc: I think I will stop counting for now as we are now quite close to Oban.

Anchorage at Port Ramsey

No 3G signal here from 3.  We must be getting into the wilds of the West Coast!



Follow the track on Google Maps.

Tuesday 28 June 2011 - Banavie to Shuna Sound

Coming down Neptune's Staircase with the Swedish boat

In Neptune's Staircase

Today it's time to leave the canal and return to the sea.  So we had better pay some attention to the weather forecast, tides and other complicated things.   After two energetic days there is no way we are going to attempt the 8am lock, so we go down at 1130 or so, together with a Swedish boat.  It's a Nicholson 32 which is obviously equipped for serious cruising with a fixed doghouse built on the forward half of the cockpit.  The young couple on board plan to sail to Australia via Panama, and intend to be away for 18 months or until the money runs out.

Leaving the canal

As expected, it was quite slow going through Neptune's Staircase, which is a flight of 8 locks, but eventually we arrived in Corpach basin, just before the sea lock.  After a brief food shopping trip we were ready to go and joined a large motor boat in the sea lock. The Three Peaks Race was in progress and we found that the leading boat was less than 20 miles away and going well.  Too late to wait to see boats arrive.

Three Peaks boat

Back at sea at last in Loch Linnhe

We had a long beat down Loch Linnhe in about F4.  On the way we saw the first 3 of the Three Peaks Race boats (the others were about 70 miles behind). We gave them cheery waves but they were either too tired or concentrating too hard to notice.

The West Coast is full of cosy little anchorages behind islands, but few of these are in Loch Linnhe and we felt the need for a bit of security and proper sleep so picked up a mooring at Linnhe Marine, in Shuna Sound.

Done 692 miles.  11 miles to go.  Follow the track on Google Maps.

Monday 27 June 2011 - Banavie & Ben Nevis

Today is the day that everyone tells us the weather should be pretty good for going up Ben Nevis and will then deteriorate on Tuesday.

We were lucky to be given a lift to the start of the path by Brianne from Farr Cottage and her boyfriend.  He is a snowboard nut who spend his summers earning some money and waiting for winter.

We took the main path as far as the lake and then went round to the N side of the mountain and started up the side of Carn Beag Dearg.  We expected to find some sort of path, but did not and just continued over steep but not difficult ground, eventually emerging at the top of the next peak (Carn Dearg Meadhonach). Maybe that was why we could not find a path!  Unusually there was no wind at the top so we had a much needed sandwich and continued along the ridge via Carn Mor Dearg (means: "Big heap of red stones", which is accurate as it is red granite).  Pam found he ridge a little frustrating as whenever the top, which is quite narrow, became a bit exposed or difficult the path deviated to the left and tried to take us away from the ridge.  We then left the path and returned to the ridge to find a perfectly good path there. Odd.

Good views of the N of Ben Nevis with the mist coming and going - the other routes up that way look too hard for us!  By the time we reached the top there was too much cloud for good views of surrounding mountains, and we enjoyed another sandwich beside the ruined observatory without any wind.

On the way down we met Brianne and boyfriend, who had come up by a more difficult route.  Unfortunately they did not catch us up so we had a long walk back from the bottom of the mountain to the boat.

N face of Ben Nevis from Carn Mor Dearg

I came up this route once before. At that time the visitor centre had not been built, the display boards showing the history of the mountain had not been made and much of the science behind the origin of the mountain was either not known or not part of the mainstream - must have been a long time ago!

Ben Nevis - at the top

Follow the track of the walk on Google Maps.

The arete route to Ben Nevis

Looking back down to Corpach and Loch Linnhe

Near the top - Don't go down this way!

Sunday 26 June 2011 - Banavie + Glen Roy

Glen Roy is not far away.  It contains the famous "parallel roads" which are a very good example of an unusual glacial phenomenon.

Nice day for a bike ride It seemed as if it was going to rain all day, but we hired bikes from Farr Cottage activity centre and hostel and set off.  The first few miles along the canal towpath were fine, except for getting covered in grey muck as the bikes have no mudguards (they only have mountain bikes).  After a while we moved onto proper roads and had to go up and down hills.  Pam had a bit of a tantrum after a few hills, complaining that the tyres were soft, there was the wrong sort of water on the road etc.  I suggested that she treat the bike like a lorry - change down gear early and hang on in there on the hills.

A stream passing under the canal We eventually reached the viewpoint in Glen Roy and also climbed the hillside to the parallel roads, which are barely visible when you are standing on them but remarkable when seen from a distance.  Glen Roy was unusually huge and quiet - nothing much seems to happen there.

On the way back we stopped at Roy Bridge for a cup of tea and scone and were a little surprised to find a large family group just ordering their meal at about 3pm.

The Parallel Roads in the distance

I am standing on the Parallel Road

We eventually returned the bikes having covered 65+km and walked a mile or so back to the boat. A very tiring and wet day, but at least it did not rain quite all day.

Saturday 25 June 2011 - Laggan Locks to Banavie

One of the many excellent waiting pontoons

Unusually, I am allowed to drive in the canal

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Friday 24 June 2011 - Great Glen Water Park to Laggan Locks

View along the Great Glen

 

Panoramic view from top of Sron a Choire Gairbh

Fine day with good weather forecast. We made the short journey from the Water Park to Laggan locks.  This is the summit level of the canal where it goes over the watershed between East and West, so there is no river running alongside the canal.  Instead it is bounded by high wooded banks - at first I thought we were in a deep cutting but I think the ground here is not very high and the banks were made with spoil dug from the canal.

After a quick cup of coffee we set off up our first Munro as it is the first time one has been near to the canal.   Sron a Choire Gairbh is at the head of a valley. Together with the neighbouring mountains it made an excellent ridge walk after a steep climb up from the valley.  We found a steep way down which seemed to lead in the right direction but with no path until we picked up a deer track and followed it for miles, until it went through the deer fence and turned into a deer-stalker's track.  An enjoyable day out in beautiful weather which allowed us to see the whole length of the Great Glen and mountains in every direction, including the distinctive shape of Ben Nevis.  However after 18+ km of mostly pathless rough walking I need an early night. We saw only one other person on the hill, but they turned off so we did not say hello. Now we have only 282 more Munros to do.

Plenty of wildlife including a Mountain Hare, Ptarmigan, Heath Spotted Orchid (lots), Butterwort, Sundew (round and obling leaved I think) and lots of others

Done 642 miles. 48 miles to go (In case you are wondering, that's the distance to Oban).  Follow the track on Google Maps.

Thursday 23 June 2011 - Invergarry to Great Glen Water Park

Monument at "Well of the Seven Heads"

The monument at the Well recalls a nasty inter-clan incident

Detail of the heads and dagger

Wednesday 22 June 2011 - Fort Augustus to Invergarry

Typical canal scene - going through the bridge to Loch Oich

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Tuesday 21 June 2011 - Dochgarroch to Fort Augustus

Proper Loch Ness Weather. At least the wind was behind us

A taste of proper Loch Ness weather -could not see very far and it rained most of the time.  We wanted to visit Urquart Castle, so headed for the jetty.  This did not seem a good idea when we saw the wind was about F4 onshore and a motor cruiser was already aground and being pulled off by the lifeboat.  We diverted to the little "private" harbour where you "pay and display".  Lifeboat, cruiser, Coastguard men, boatyard men all turned up and filled in forms etc (we later heard that they were drunk and were turned off the boat). We took the busy road walk to Drumnadroichit, bought souvenirs and tea.  Decided it was too far to walk to the castle.

Later we made a cautious landing at the castle pier, which was rather tricky even though the onshore wind had lessened.  Took a quick look round the castle and headed for Fort Augustus as Loch Ness is not blessed with lots of stopping places. No monsters.


606 miles done. 84 miles to go.  Follow the track on Google Maps.

Monday 20 June 2011 - Inverness to Dochgarroch

In our first flight of locks

We made a 7am start from the marina in the mouth of the River Ness to go round to the start of the Caledonian Canal about 1 1/2 miles further up the Firth.  Should be easy as we are not due at the lock till 7:45. Struggled against fast ebb tide just upstream of the Kessock bridge, doing about 1.5 knots over the ground with the engine on full speed.  As the water became wider and slower we speeded up a bit and eventually reached the lock in time.

We were the only boat in the lock and took a while receiving our instructions and paying for our passage.  All lock staff were very helpful.  Stopped at Seaport marina for a bit of shopping and visited the Gael Force chandlery.

Eventually we were ready to go and followed a German boat into the flight of 4 locks.  My first experience of a flight of locks.  There are no mooring places on the lock walls - you throw ropes up to the lock staff who put them round hook-style bollards and pass the ends down.  The only problem is that Pam claims she can't throw the rope up, so insists on steering while I do all the rope stuff.

After a while we finished up at Dochgarroch, which means we can continue into Loch Ness tomorrow without passing through any more locks.

Moored at Dochgarroch

What a change from the Moray Firth. We now feel definitely inland with signs of mountains around.  There has been no wind all day, the water is completely smooth and it is starting to get slightly warm

Done 606 miles. 84 miles to go.  Follow the track on Google Maps.

Sunday 19 June 2011 - Cromarty to Inverness

Dolphins found us in Moray Firth

This is the day when we pass through the narrows at Chanonry which is the top Dolphin watching place in Eastern Scotland.

We managed to leave the harbour before the HM collected the ridiculous £20 which is shown as the fee. On the way out we did a hasty stop as the ferry was unexpectedly returning to its berth as there was not enough tide at the other side.  After they had tied up we squeezed past. With little wind, we motored to Fort George and then sailed slowly looking for Dolphins.  A few approached (see pic) but did not stay with us.

Lots of people were standing on the end of the spit at Chanonry, watching dolphins which were very close to the shore - they got a better view than we did.  We came back for another look but did not see much more.

Dolphin-watchers + dolphin at Chanonry Point

Inverness Marina is a fine new place, designed and built by people who go everywhere by car.  You have to walk a long way to get anywhere within the marina, and miles to get into the town, which is more pleasant than we expected, with the River Ness running alongside it.


Tomorrow we enter the canal. "Be there 7:45", the lock-keeper said.

Done 600 miles. 90 miles to go.  Follow the track on Google Maps

Saturday 18 June 2011 - Lossiemouth to Cromarty

Tricky entering Cromarty as the tide flows right through!

We can afford to spend a bit of time in the Moray Firth before getting into the Caledonian Canal, so decided to go to Cromarty, or if we did not like that them maybe to Avoch (pronounced "Ockh" I think).

Saw 1 seal but no dolphins

Hope they move the ferry before we go!

Found the entrance to the small harbour at Cromarty rather tricky.  As well as tide across the entrance there is a cross tide within the harbour from a gap in the far wall, flowing out of the entrance.  Did not hit anything. Had a meal of Moray Firth Shrimps (we would call them large langoustines) at the pub.


Done 583 miles. 108 miles to go.  Follow the track on Google Maps

Friday 17 June 2011 - Whitehills to Lossiemouth

A fine day with some sign of wind too. We have decided to go on to Lossiemouth, or if we make good progress maybe to Burghead.  We asked the harbourmaster for some tips about seeing dolphins.  He and his friend looked over the harbour wall and pointed one out! It was travelling rapidly East.  So we set off to look for dolphins on the way West.

Did not have a proper view of any dolphins. Pam had a brief sight of one which went away again.

Entering Lossiemouth

After a while I phoned the harbourmaster at Burghead to find that he was on holiday, so decided it was easier to go to Lossiemouth, where we berthed next to "Dash", the Sadler 34 which we keep meeting.  Later "Sea Horse" turned up after a long day from Peterhead.

Lossiemouth was quite a pleasant place when the jet fighters stopped flying for the weekend.  We visited the Royal Naval Association club with Martin from Dash.

Done 553 miles. 124 miles to go. Follow the track on Google Maps

Thursday 16 June 2011 - Whitehills again

Again we do not expect any wind and so thought we would explore a bit more of the area rather than spend the day motoring.

Whitehills harbour

Walked to Banff (I don't mean the place in Canada, but a town about 3 miles to the East) which seems like a nice place. It is the County Town, but seems a bit small for that role. Had lunch there and bought some provisions including Scotch Pies.  Whilst buying the pies I asked what "stovies" were and we were given a taste (it's a tradional way of cooking up the leftover beef from the weekend and serving it on Monday).  Walked back. On the way we passed an old well containing some mineral-rich water.  There used to be a circular walk from Banff where people would take the waters from several such wells. It did not look suitable for drinking.

Really must leave tomorrow or we will be here forever

Wednesday 15 June 2011 - Whitehills

Not much wind forecast, from a variety of directions, we are feeling a bit tired, and Whitehills seems a nice place so we decided to stay.

Seal at a beach to the W of Whitehills

Marsh Orchid (I think)

Walked to a nearby village (Boyndie) where the old school has been converted into a cafe, garden centre etc run with the help of a number of disabled people.  We had a good lunch (Pam had Cullen Skink soup) and then walked back to the coast a bit further W from Whitehills. We found the sandy bay with seals which the harbourmaster had told us about and then walked back above the beach level.  There appears to be a spring line all the way along this piece of coast, so the grass is long and green and there are a lot of interesting plants, such as Marsh Orchid, Cotton Grass, Butterwort, Ragged Robin, Oyster plant, some we could not identify and many I have forgotten.

Tuesday 14 June 2011 - Peterhead to Whitehills

The weather seems much better than predicted a couple of days ago.  Leaving the harbour we saw about 10 oil/gas support ships in the harbour.  They seem to come and go quite frequently. We have been advised to pass 5 miles off Rattray Head as the sea can be disturbed there.  Conditions seemed ideal and the 5 mile limit seemed unnecessary, but we followed it anyway, finding that 2 fishing boats and 2 support ships passed the same way, so maybe it's not a bad idea.

Rattray Head - not impressive

As we came to the headland the wind slowly changed direction at the same time, so we slowly turned through more than 90 degrees but remained comfortably on port tack. As major coastal turning points go, Rattray head is a bit of a disappointment. It seems just a low sandy shore, with low land behind, much less impressive than the cliffs of North Foreland or the shingle banks of Orford Ness or Dungeness. The wind went light and we had to motor for a while on the way round Rattray Head and towards Whitehills.  In between we had some reasonable sailing and put up the cruising chute for a while in an attempt to keep up an acceptable speed.  We passed Troup Head and took a look at the Gannet colony there, unusual in not being on an island.

Troup Head - more like a proper headland, complete with gannets

I phoned Whitehills harbour to ask about berthing.  The HM asked me to phone 15 minutes before arrival and he would come down and meet us, which he did around 9pm - what service! We were berthed in the outer harbour - fortunately as the boats are really packed in the inner harbour with little space to turn.

528 miles done. 146 miles to go.  Follow the track on Google Maps

Monday 13 June 2011 - Peterhead

Peterhead Harbour - Don't think we will go sailing just now

Forecast is for a low to come across, with attendant wind and rain.  I think the met office are exaggerating describing it as "deep" in the forecast when it's about 998 or 999 mb.

Rain, a bit of wind. Do the washing at the caravan park next door. Then it's lunchtime and the weather is much better.

Peterhead Bay marina - overlooked by support ships

We then took a look round Peterhead, starting with the fishing harbour.  Other parts of the harbour contain a number of support vessels for the oil and gas industry.  No I don't mean the little boats that run errands for the wind farms off the Suffolk Coast, but proper size ships one of which towers over the marina wall.  The ships are equipped with cranes, cable drums and lots of other interesting stuff.

Pathway, with Kings Cross behind. Bigger than the average crab boat

We saw a huge fishing boat entering the fishing harbour. 67m long and almost 6m draft "Pathway". "Kings Cross" which was even bigger was already there.  However when I checked out Pathway on marinetraffic.com it seems to just do short trips out to sea and back - strange for such a big boat. I have since been advised by one informant that it brings back 6000 tons of Mackerel and by another informant (possibly more reliable as a former fisherman) that it brings back 1000 tons of Herring (or Mackerel in season).  Apparently part of the skill is not to charge into the middle of a huge shoal or the net breaks, but to work carefully round the edge.  I am also told that the entire 1000 tons is taken with one cast of the net which can be closed off in sections so that "only" 200 tons are in each section.  I don't understand why such a huge boat is used as after a few weeks it has used up all its quota and has to tie up in port for months! One of the many mysteries of the fishing system.

It looks as if the weather is improving for tomorrow and we may be able to move on.

Sunday 12 June 2011 – Stonehaven to Peterhead



Stonehaven, looking into midddle harbo

A fine day with a poor forecast for tomorrow.  Don’t feel that Stonehaven is a place to be in bad weather.  However the Harbourmaster said he could always put us in the inner harbour if necessary.  When there’s a gale from the East (normally only October to March) he closes the inner harbour with steel beams lifted in with a dedicated crane. Stonehaven’s expensive side is revealed again when we pay – marina prices for use of the harbour wall and a loo/shower key shared between 3 boats.

As the wind was light we tried a little fishing, but without success.  The owner of the sea angling boat that we were rafted with said he preferred to catch mackerel from a stationary boat rather than by trolling. However he has the benefit of a fishfinder so only drops the lines over when fish are about.

Josephine with Staines Castle in the background

After a while we do some proper sailing and after the entrance to Aberdeen we put up the cruising chute (first time this trip).  We were catching up the Dutch boat “Josephine” quite quickly so they put up their cruising chute.  We overtook them anyway.

The marina is excellent – all facilities and good shelter. The 2 Dutch sailors and also Alec from “Sea Horse” joined us for a drink in the evening.  The Dutchmen were planning to leave in the morning even with the poor forecast as they though it was an over-estimate.  They would go straight to Orkney.

485 miles done. 180 miles to go. Follow the track on Google Maps

Saturday 11 June 2011 – Arbroath to Stonehaven

Grey, damp and windless. Not a very appealing sailing day.  Our neighbour in “Dash” a Sadler 34 left as soon as the gates opened at 7am.  Some other boats left whilst we had breakfast. We left just after a very smart Dutch boat (Josephine) which was also heading for Stonehaven and followed them. We soon needed a reef in the main, but kept the genoa full.  This stretch of coast is fairly straight, but we gradually moved from a reach to a close fetch and then spent the last few miles tacking, arriving at Stonehaven around low tide.  The Sea Cadets were busy rowing and motorboating in the outer harbour.   We avoided each other and tied up alongside a sea angling boat to look for the harbourmaster. He had already gone home but we were assured that we could stay where we were. Just as well as we were glad to be here after a very cold and continuously wet day.

Stonehaven, with us on Outer Breakwater

This is only our second proper old-fashioned harbour, without any pontoons or other modern stuff (the other being Bridlington).

A brief look round Stonehaven showed it to be quite a prosperous place, judging by the prices in the restaurants and some of the cars. However it is also the birthplace of Robert Thomson who was an engineer and inventor and invented the pneumatic tyre, preceding Dunlop by 43 years.

445 miles done. 215 miles to go. Follow the track on Google Maps

Friday 10 June 2011 – Arbroath

Under the bowsprit of Kommandoren

Woke to the smell of wood smoke. Is someone having a bonfire? No, it’s the many smokie houses smoking the first batches of haddock.

No sign of any wind and we don’t want to motor all the way, so decided to look at the town, in particular the museum which is based in the old lighthouse families accommodation which still has the signal tower to signal to the lighthouse.  The lighthouse in question is the Bell Rock lighthouse, which is on the Inchcape Rock and inspired the poem of that name by Robert Southey.

Museum. Was lighthouse family accommodation and signal tower.

On the way we chatted to the people in a fine old converted Baltic Trader called Kommandoren, 27m overall inc bowsprit with 2 masts and 120 years old but in very good order.  They keep the boat in the Caledonian Canal and gave us lots of tips about the canal and places to stop. They run a company which supplies survey ships and deals in second-hand submersibles.

By the time we had finished with the museum the harbour gate had long since closed and there was still no wind, so we ate our smokies for lunch.

We later discovered that Arbroath has a large ruined abbey, famous for the Declaration of Arbroath (Scottish declaration of independence) which seems to have been critical to the creation of the Scottish nation. By the time we found it the abbey was closed.

Hopefully tomorrow we move on, possibly to Stonehaven.

Thursday 9 June 2011 - Eyemouth to Arbroath

Bass Rock and North Berwick Law

At last the barometer has risen a little after being at 998 all yesterday.  You would not think it was so low to look at the weather which was sunny periods and showers.  The plan, at Chris’s suggestion, was to sail near to the Bass Rock and take a close look at the birds, then pass the Isle of May and then go to Arbroath, or maybe Anstruther. We left the harbour at the same time as the catamaran and motor-sailer from Whitby and hoisted full sail in the bay.  Half way to St Abb’s Head the wind became stronger and gusty so we put in a reef.  Once round the headland we decided to skip Bass Rock as it was 20 miles away, hard on the wind which was F4-5.  Isle of May was more appealing, being just off the wind and we had a fast but bumpy and tiring sail with wind that was shifty and gusty.  However there was a beautiful sky and lines of clouds on each side of the firth, with a clear area in between.  No prospect of landing at the island as although the entrance was sheltered it was low tide and we had not done any homework about it.

Once past the island a large grey cloud approached and we put in the second reef, which had been under consideration several times.  We were now on a beam reach and going really well. Soon after passing Fife Ness we had a big drop in the wind and started motoring, reading the pilot book carefully about Arbroath. Panic! – it’s not open for all of HW +-3, just the part which falls within working hours, which end at 20:00.  Wind soon picked up again and we arrived in plenty of time.

Approaching Isle of May

Arbroath is known for Arbroath Smokies, a sort of smoked haddock.  Not sure I want to try these, no problem the smokie shops were all closed. Other interesting stuff here which I don’t think we will have time to explore, in particular the house where the lighthouse men’s families used to live which has a signal ball to communicate with the lighthouse.

406 miles done. 244 miles to go.  Follow the track on Google Maps

Wednesday 8 June 2011 – Eyemouth

A bit of a social day. Robert and Christine, Chris’s new in-laws, visited and we went to the golf club for lunch, with the idea of sailing on in the afternoon.  After an extended lunch and much chat the sailing was never going to happen.

The trial replacement Adverc unit and diode had arrived, so I continued to investigate.  I did not use the new items as the old ones seem to be working OK. I discovered that during the initial installation I had omitted to remove the original wire from the alternator output, so the alternator was supplying the engine start battery directly as well as via the diodes. Woops! Removed the offending connection and it now charges both batteries at the correct voltages.

Chris visited in the evening and handed back the borrowed charts and pilot books.  Some of them are much older than I remember – may be time to re-equip!

Eyemouth harbour seemed a bit quiet compared with our last visit.  The busiest thing seems to be the ice supply – filling big skips which are loaded onto lorries and vans.  The harbourmaster said that they had lost 6 fishing boats in the last 18 months (I don’t mean lost at sea, they had packed up fishing or moved elsewhere).

Tuesday 7 June 2011 – Farne Islands to Eyemouth

Grey Seals near Inner Farne

Rather a late departure after spending more time investigating a battery charging problem.  I started to look at this yesterday when it seemed that the Adverc unit was not doing its job properly.  After other checks I phoned Adverc yet again and just as they were arranging to send a trial replacement unit and diodes, it all started to work properly.  Anyway they are still sending the spare parts, hopefully arriving tomorrow at Eyemouth.

Hurkar Rocks off entrance to Eyemouth

After leaving we sailed slowly to allow some fishing (not successful) and then sailed slowly to ensure we did not arrive at low water.

Eyemouth: Looks tight but we have not reached the narrow bit yet

We watched a 2 masted sailing ship being manhandled up the narrow channel to the boatyard.  Very tricky and great entertainment for the onlookers.  You would hesitate to take a normal small yacht up this channel, so the ship was completely filling the channel and the yards were breaking bits off the trees.

357 miles done. 288 miles to go. Follow the track on Google Maps

Monday 6 June 2011 – Amble to Farne Islands

Again the weather is much better than during our last visit in 2008.  Light wind, a bit of sun and cold.  With settled weather forecast we have a great chance to stop at the Farne Islands overnight and see birds and seals etc.  This will also be our first night at anchor on this trip – will we be able to manage without shore power?
We arrived around 2pm and anchored in “the kettle” beside Inner Farne.  As we fiddled with choosing a spot to anchor a stream of tour boats came and went from the small jetty and their passengers moved along the island’s tracks like streams of ants.  We overheard one briefing from a tour boat about the need to wear a hat as the birds dive-bomb you.  They certainly did, in a quite intimidating way.  We did 2 laps of the tiny island and had excellent views of Arctic Terns, Sandwich Terns, Guillemots, Razorbills, Cormorants (or maybe they were Shags), Eider ducks, Puffins, Black Headed Gulls, Kittiwakes and probably a few others.
 

In the evening we moved to the trip boat’s mooring for a better night’s sleep and listened to the seabirds and seals.
337 miles done. 311 miles to go. Follow the track on Google Maps.